Top, front and splash ring removed - ready to remove the inner basket.

Agitator off. (Remove set screw on side of agitator.)  Heavily corroded spanner nut.

Heating spanner nut to try to get it off.

Finally had to drill out and break the spanner nut off.

Inner basket out after breaking spanner nut.

Removing Allan key set screw to remove outer tub.

Cleaning up transmission shaft to pull the outer tub up and off.

Removed tripod support nuts and bolts.

Twisting and pulling to try to get outer tub off.  Eventually got it off after oiling the sleeve where it fits onto the transmission.

Outer tub finally off.  Tranny is next.

Belt pulley ready to be removed.

Tub Bearing and seal punched out the bottom of the outer tub.  Ready for new seal.

Picture of bolt and clip that holds the brake and clutch together.

Can't get break/clutch to move an inch.  So back to the torch to heat it up.

Hammer and chisel time.  Chisel stuck in brake.

End of the line.  This is as far as we got.  Could not get the brake/clutch assembly off of tranny.  At this point we condemned this unit.  The only way I could think of getting any further would be to attack the bottom end of this machine with a Sawzall.  Not worth it.

Can anyone tell me where these things go? Better yet, does someone have a diagram how these racks are supposed to be set up?

Whew! This is a NOISY one!

This noise is definitely coming from the lower tranny area. I don't have enough experience on these machines to just know what is making this creaking noise.

Sometimes it really is as simple as a blocked drain hose.

Amplify’d from neighboursappliance.com

by strathy in Repairs, Tech Tip { Edit } Here’s a hint for all you tech’s and DYI’ers out there. If you have a Whirlpool or Kitchen Aid dishwasher that is either not draining or draining slow … and you’ve checked all the regular culprits for this problem (blocked drain hose at sink stack, crushed or collapsed hose, plugged sump, etc.), then you need to check the backflow check-valve in the hose itself. The valve is a little rubber flapper and is located inside the hose just before the 90 deg elbow where the drain hose fits onto the bottom of the sump/pump. If you use a flashlight and backlight it, you should see it flap open when the drain pump starts.  It will look like a little black circle sitting on the side of the drain hose. If junk gets stuck up behind it, the flap can be prevented form opening all the way.  Also, if the flap gets lodged into the opening instead of resting on the face, it will not open up all the way. In the video, you can clearly see it moving slightly as the water rushes by it – that is what you should be seeing. Read more at neighboursappliance.com

This control board came from a microwave that would occasionally turn itself on by itself.  I don't think the mag was actually firing, but the fan was coming on.  It would also occasionally make a high pitched electronic whining sound. Traced it to the control board.  This is the old control board - check out the corrosion on the back.  Never heard back, so it definitely fixed the problem.

Anyone hearing anything from Whirlpool Corp on this one? This is my 2nd one with the same problem in two days.

This is a brand new Duet style Maytag washer. The unit will not fill
and is flashing up the code LF. LF stands for Long Fill and can be
triggered by anything from a water supply problem to pressure switch
problems. In this case there was no water coming to the unit ... so
the fill was extra long! Lol.

This is a brand new Kitchen Aid refrigerator. The water dispenser leaks anywhere from 2 drips to a couple of dozen drips. This problem is being caused by air entering into the water system somewhere. You can tell that it is air in the system by the little 'spurt' that you can see about 1/2 a second into the video. This air bubble happens every time the water dispenser paddle is pushed. I traced the air bubbles back as far as the tank in the fresh food section - I can see bubbles entering the tank when I call for water. This eliminates everything after the water tank as the source of the air. The parts left are the water filter, filter housing, water valve and interconnecting tubing. I'm leaning toward the filter housing being the problem, so I will try that first.

This bottom mount Whirlpool fridge was making ice non-stop. After removing all the ice, I found the ice-maker shutoff arm was no longer inserted into the ice-maker. I reinstalled it and now this unit should shut off when the bucket is full. This problem was probably caused by putting a box on top of the ice bucket and then shutting the door.